Finish Mower Low/Med/High/Mulch Blades?

PBinWA

Member
I'm thinking of getting a Land Pride 72" Rear Discharge Finish Mower.

They have four blade options:

Mowing Blades

There are four blade choices to select from based upon
soil condition, density of grass, and tractor horsepower.
The appearance of the finish cut may vary between low
lift and high lift blades. See your Land Pride dealer for
blade availability.

Low Lift Blades

Land Pride’s low lift blades are designed for mowing over
sandy soil terrain where high suction lift is not crucial.
Sand sucked into the blades accelerates blade wear
more than normal. Low lift blades are recommended
because they produce a lower suction keeping sand
uplift and blade wear to a minimum.

Medium Lift Blades (Factory Standard)

Land Pride’s medium lift blades are great when
horsepower is a concern. They produces a medium
suction for lifting grass requiring less horsepower than
high lift blades.

High Lift Blades

Land Pride’s high lift blades develop the greatest suction
for lifting grass for that fresh clean cut look. However,
they may require more horsepower especially when
cutting tall dense grass. They are not recommended for
sandy soil conditions.

Mulching Blades

Land Pride’s mulching blades are designed to chop
leaves and/or grass into smaller parts leaving your

So do you think my 23 PTO HP Tractor will have enough power to use the High Lift Blades?

Do High Lift Blades really use that much more HP and do they make that much difference? Or are they a gimick?

PB
 
Just yesterday I was just swearing at what I believe to be high-lift blades on my mower.

This applies to my mower but something to consider.

What I've found is that if there's any dampness in the grass, the blades have so much lift that it cakes the grass to the top of the deck instead of shooting it out and the deck starts to clog. I then raise the deck and shut off the blades. Then most of the grass falls out and I can continue... for awhile, then repeat the lift and shut-down process. Due to these thick chunks being dropped, I then have to clean them up otherwise it chokes/kills the grass underneath.

PS. Mine is a 52" deck with a 25 HP engine. When this clogging occurs, it does start to bog the engine down.
 
I run a 72" brush hog brand rear finish mower with regular blades. I have 26hp at the pto and in thick stuff it does bog down a little. I just slow down or stop to let the revolutions raise back up to normal.
I would try the regular blades before considering the high lift blades.
 
Just yesterday I was just swearing at what I believe to be high-lift blades on my mower.

This applies to my mower but something to consider.

What I've found is that if there's any dampness in the grass, the blades have so much lift that it cakes the grass to the top of the deck instead of shooting it out and the deck starts to clog. I then raise the deck and shut off the blades. Then most of the grass falls out and I can continue... for awhile, then repeat the lift and shut-down process. Due to these thick chunks being dropped, I then have to clean them up otherwise it chokes/kills the grass underneath.

PS. Mine is a 52" deck with a 25 HP engine. When this clogging occurs, it does start to bog the engine down.

Is the cut quality with high lift blades that much better?

Maybe, I'll get two sets. Run the mulching blades until June and then switch over to high lift once things have dried out a bit.
 
Is the cut quality with high lift blades that much better?
Hmmm, I don't know in that I've only got the one set of blades and therefore can't do a side-by-side comparison.
I can say that if the grass is dry enough where the tires aren't getting wet, there is enough suction to stand the grass back up after it's been run over by the front tires so it can/will be cut. But... That's on a ZTR so I only have about 100# on each front tire. I can't say how they'll work on a tractor but I'm guessing that without the lift, you may find that the grass laid down by the front tires may not get cut as well if it's not stood back up.
 
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